冬天穿搭男裝的六種休閒風格方案 Winter Outfits: Men's 6 Casual Styles
Winter is the best time of year to put on the maximum number of outfit items and show off your cool styles. Don't forget to take advantage of it with these following eye-catching casual styles if you'd like to keep people turning heads.
冬天是一年當中能夠在身上堆疊最多穿搭單品的季節,也是最能夠展現人們穿搭功力的時刻,穿搭高手們一定要好好把握。接下來就與大家分享六種冬季男裝穿搭的休閒風格,可視不同的氣候與時機斟酌選用。(附影片)
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Business Casual 商務休閒風
Business casual dress code is very common in workplaces, especially on casual Fridays. It's usually composed of derby shoes, chinos, a shirt, and a blazer or coat. At least half of the items should be in earth tone colours. Deeper colours, like dark brown and olive green, are recommended in winter. Avoid black clothes or accessories. Black doesn't go with earth tone colours. By the way, since winter is the season for coats, and wearing a pea coat or bridge coat is neither too formal nor too informal, either of them is perfect to take the place of a blazer when it comes to winter's business casual style.
Occasions:
Conference Center Hotels, Casual Fridays
冬季男裝的商務休閒風通常由襯衫、斜紋棉褲、德比皮鞋,以及西裝外套或大衣搭配而成,其中的外套與長褲至少要有一項是深色的大地色系,例如深褐色或橄欖綠,同時宜避開與大地色系格格不入的黑色單品或配件。此外,由於冬天是大衣的季節,有點休閒又不會太休閒的雙排釦海軍大衣(衣長較短的叫 Pea Coat,衣長較長的叫 Bridge Coat)最適合在冬季用於商務休閒穿搭,取代西裝外套的地位。除了經典的深藍色海軍大衣以外,深灰色也很百搭。但穿衣長較短的 Pea Coat 時,除非坐著,否則最好要把第一排的釦子扣好,才能顯出腰身。至於長褲,除了卡其褲以外,只要是深色(黑色除外)的斜紋棉褲,也都很適合秋冬的商務休閒場合。在配色上,則可採用經典不敗的上下呼應法 --- 深灰色大衣呼應深灰色襪、深褐領帶呼應深褐皮鞋,簡單的巧思即可產生高竿的效果。
適用場合:
渡假中心研討會(研習營)、休閒星期五
Smart Casual 時尚休閒風
Smart casual is not only a common dress code for social gatherings, but a sharp outfit style for urban life. Just change the chinos to raw denim jeans, and change the earth tone colours of the business casual style to a combo of black, grey, white or blue. Then, you've got the look. However, as brown is perfect to go with blue, you can still stick to this style by matching blue clothes with brown or brownish accessories (such as shoes, socks, and belts). In winter, it's highly recommended to replace your blazer with a Chesterfield coat. A formal blue Chesterfield coat won't be too formal at all as long as it's matched with a pair of raw denim jeans.
Occasions:
Social Gatherings, Urban Life
「時尚休閒」不但是社交聚會場合常見的著裝要求,也是一種極具時尚都會感的穿搭風格。其實,只要將前述商務休閒風格中的斜紋棉褲換成原色牛仔褲,並將大地色系為主的顏色改成黑、白、灰或藍色的組合,即可完成這兩種風格的轉換。由於藍色搭配褐色是經典不敗的組合,當身上沒有黑色單品或配件時,也可選用褐色系配件(皮鞋、襪子、皮帶、錶帶等)來搭配藍色衣褲。另外,具有足夠正式感的深藍色西裝領徹斯特大衣,不但適用於上班時的商務穿搭,而且,下班後只要換上一條原色牛仔褲,就完成了都會時尚感十足的休閒風格。要注意的是,不論商家鼓吹的風潮如何,大衣的長度最好別超過膝蓋以下,除非你嫌自己太高了。當天氣較冷時,也可再添加一條長圍巾來搭配,如此一來,不但更保暖,也能較顯高(當長圍巾垂墜懸掛時)。
適用場合:
社交聚會場合、都會生活
Resort Casual 渡假休閒風
Resort casual is a common daytime dress code for most resorts and cruises. When you go on a holiday in winter, you'll probably go to somewhere warmer. That's when you need to put on linen or cotton items again, which should be a bit oversized to make you feel more comfortable. You can't beat the combination of blue and brown items here. These two colours are the perfect duo. As for accessories, you can put on suede or distressed leather shoes instead of Espadrilles. A suede belt or hemp rope belt can take the place of a distressed leather belt as well. By the way, remember to replace the outfit with a more formal one after sunset. The dress code is usually more formal in the nighttime.
Occasions:
Beaches, Resorts, Cruises
這裡介紹的「渡假休閒」,不但是一種既慵懶又有型的穿搭風格,也是高檔渡假中心與郵輪常見的日間著裝要求。在冬季,人們往往傾向到陽光普照、氣溫較高的地方渡假,此時就是棉、麻等透氣材質再度登場的時機,搭配較為寬鬆的版型、經典不敗的藍褐配色、深色的西班牙草編鞋、透氣又垂墜感十足的的棉質針織衫,以及窄版深褐色仿舊皮帶,就完成了極具秋冬季節感的男裝休閒渡假風,適用於各種日間的渡假場合。(如果沒有西班牙草編鞋,麂皮或仿舊的皮鞋也可取而代之。仿舊皮帶則可用麂皮腰帶或麻繩腰帶取代。)要注意的是,通常日落以後就需要換上比較正式風格的服裝了,以符合夜間場合的著裝要求。
適用場合:
海邊、渡假中心、郵輪
Chic Street 別緻街頭風
It's not a problem at all to wear black on city streets day or night with sneakers, jeans, and T-shirts (as long as you don't match black items with earth tone colours). No one will think you're attending a funeral with these street style items. Actually, when it comes to this style, the simple black and white combo is really sharp in winter. On top of that, you can put on a classic trench coat or chesterfield coat to elevate it to a really chic street style.
Occasions:
Shopping, Daily Life
T 恤、牛仔褲與運動鞋往往是強調隨興與粗曠感的街頭風格常見元素(此時選用黑色單品就不會有太過嚴肅的問題,只要別搭配大地色系就好)。然而,隨興與隨便,往往只在一線之間,因此,選用較輕柔且合身的 T 恤,搭配修身且捲褲腳的牛仔褲以及較修長的運動鞋,再外加一件合身的軍裝風衣或徹斯特大衣,並以黑白兩色的極簡配色呈現,同時把 T 恤下擺半紮在腰帶頭,就能大幅提升精緻感,完成冬季男裝之別緻街頭風。
適用場合:
逛街、日常生活
Sexy Casual 性感休閒風
When you prefer to look more mature and sexy in winter, just put on a skinny-fit blazer, a pair of slim-fit short-rise or low-rise trousers, and pointed derby shoes. You can also match them with a slim-fit denim shirt, and leave the top two buttons unbuttoned. Then you're as attractive as you can be. Remember to avoid black items as well. You don't wanna make yourself look solemn then.
Occasions:
Dating, Special Occasions for Couples
想擺脫中二的小屁孩形象嗎?當大地色系、丹寧布料、 棉質西裝外套、斜紋棉褲等充滿休閒感的元素,遇到了極窄的腰身、不扣前二鈕的襯衫、短褲襠的窄版長褲、大幅露出的色襪、尖頭皮鞋等性感元素時,就完成了冬日男裝的性感休閒風情,完美適用於當您想讓自己看起來既成熟又性感的時刻。(此時要記得避開黑色單品與配件,幽默又風趣的性感型男是不會想讓自己看起來太嚴肅的。)
適用場合:
約會、與另一伴的重要時刻
Rugged Gentleman 粗曠紳士風
Rugged gentleman style is a practical way to stay elegant when the weather's too bad. Just make sure your shirt, tie, blazer, and trousers are all made of wool, flannel, corduroy, linen, denim, or chino. Match them with a field jacket or parka, a 3.5 cm leather belt, and a pair of military boots. You can also wear a down vest underneath your blazer or coat, and wear a down coat instead of your military parka. Still, you have to stick to earth tone colours to go with the rugged fabrics, except for your outwear (jacket, parka or down coat), which can be black without any problems. And the shirt can be white too. You can't beat a white shirt.
Occasions:
Bad Weather, Daily Life
「粗曠紳士」是一種超實用的冬季穿搭風格,尤其當天氣惡劣時。包括襯衫、領帶、西裝外套與長褲等單品,只要採用表面感覺較粗糙的材質(不論是羊毛、亞麻、法蘭絨、燈芯絨、丹寧或斜紋棉布皆可),同時再搭配軍裝外套與一雙粗曠的皮靴(例如戰鬥靴等),就完成了既優雅又保暖的粗曠紳士風格(如果會露出腰帶,以大約 3.5 公分寬的皮帶最為適合)。如果想要更保暖,還可在外套裡頭添加一件羽絨背心,也可將軍裝外套改成防風登山外套或羽絨外套。在顏色的選用上,各種穿搭單品與配件,一樣以比較深的大地色系為宜,以配合粗糙布料營造的質樸休閒感,同時要避開各種黑色單品與配件,但最外層的大外套(化外之衣)可以是黑色的,襯衫則可以是白色的(白色襯衫是經典,一旦成為經典就能百搭)。
適用場合:
惡劣天氣、日常生活
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男生穿搭
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